The Importance of Knowledge
I think it’s only fitting to start this blog off with explaining what I feel is the most important aspect of keeping an animal. No matter what that animal may be. It’s not what kind of substrate you use, it’s not the container you use, not the plants, what kind of feeder. None of that holds any significance without this key component. Understanding everything you can about the animal you plan to keep.
This is what’s most important, before you go asking for advice about substrates, enclosures, plants, decorations, types of feeders. None of those things matter if you do not have an understanding to the type of animal you are keeping, what habitat they come from, what is the natural diets they should have, how they make their homes to survive. When you research and answer these questions, you will have a better understanding of what you need in all the other categories.
Take note because knowledge is vital, and making sure you are getting the right information about the right species. It is very important to know the species scientific name as there are several various species that get confused under common names that actually can require different husbandry from one another, it also helps avoid confusion when seeking advice from other hobbyists about the species that you have. Behaviors differ between species, knowing the scientific name for the one you have is key.
Now this article focuses primarily in the keeping of tarantulas. I’m going to go through the basic questions you need to be able to answer in order to really provide basic care for your tarantula. This is going to be more summary than in depth explanation on each subject. I will do other articles that can go into more detail on the different options available in each of these topics talked about. For now however we’ll keep things simple.
Question 1a
What type of Tarantula is it? OW vs NW
This may not seem like a very important question to most. It’s a spider, who cares what kind? Why would that matter? Well contrary to popular belief, every species of spider is different, they evolved to survive different climates, different conditions, and have different methods in which they hunt for food and defend themselves from predators. The type of tarantula (or spider) you have dictates everything else that goes into setting up a comfortable, safe, and secure home for the animal.
First thing to know about the type of tarantula you have is if it is NW (New World) or OW (Old World). The primary difference between these two types is the species primary defense against dangers. NW tarantulas have urticating hairs as their primary defense, small hairs that can cause physical irritation. OW tarantulas utilize their bite as their primary defense as they do not have urticating hairs and their venom is often medically significant because of this.
Urticating hairs come in 6 different types and it is believed that different types are set to target different dangers. Depending on the species of tarantula, determines the type of urticating hairs that they have. Of the different types of urticating hairs it’s type 3 and 4 that is most irritating for mammalian predators, which includes humans.. These can cause allergic reactions in humans which can result in inflammation, rashes and itching. They can last from several hours to several days. The largest danger however from urticating hairs is when it comes into contact with the eyes. There have been cases in which surgery has been required for individuals who have had them become lodged in the cornea.
However even with urticating hairs as their primary defense, keep in mind they still have a venomous bite. With most NW species, their venom is not medically significant and can be equal to that of a bee sting. This is why beginners will start with NW species majority of the time. Though it should be known that some NW species do have medically significant venom and you should make sure you are fully aware if the species you are keeping is one of those or not. Because their primary defense is urticating hairs they are not as prone to resort to biting, they can have a calmer demeanor as well and do not move as quickly as OW tarantulas. This is another reason they are always suggested for beginner keepers.
While NW tarantulas have urticating hairs, OW species do not as stated before. These species rely on their bite if they are unable to flee from danger. While there is no record of a death due to tarantula bite, it’s important to seek medical attention from an OW bite. Most OW species have a medically significant bite that will cause extreme pain, cramping in the area around the bite, spasms, and has even in some cases caused nerve damage. Symptoms can last from hours to days depending on the severity of the venom and bite.
Because they rely on their bite as a defense they are more prone to resort to biting when feeling threatened. This causes them to appear more aggressive than their NW counterparts, they are quicker, more defensive, and do not have the calmer demeanor when interacting with them. This is why it’s not suggested that beginners to the hobby start out with OW species. Knowing whether the species you have is NW or OW helps you to know what steps to take in various situations that may occur as you keep them. Regardless to keeping NW or OW species, respect should be given to these creatures and the dangers that they can possess to the care giver if not treated with caution and care.
Question 1b
What type of tarantula is it? Terrestrial vs Arboreal
So we figured out if it’s OW or NW. Now to dig in a little deeper and this is where it’s fundamental to the type of enclosure setup you use for your tarantula. Different types of tarantulas require different options in how they make their homes. The two types is terrestrial, those who make their homes in the earth. Then there is Arboreal, those who make their homes above the earth usually in the trees. As you might already be imagining, that makes set up for each of these a bit different.
If you are keeping a terrestrial species then you are most likely keeping a species that will want or need to burrow to feel safe and secure. While there are various types of terrestrial species out there, we are going to just stick with the basics here. The important thing is providing them with a hide and the ability to burrow should they want to. Not all terrestrial species will burrow, some will utilize the hide given and leave it at that. Others will want something more in order to feel secure. This is not necessarily a species specific thing either. While some species are more commonly known to burrow or not to burrow there are instances where someone’s tarantula decides to go against the common belief for that terrestrial species. That is why I personally feel all terrestrial species should be given enough substrate to be able to burrow should they want to. However that is personal opinion and not fact.
Of course it should be known that if you do give your tarantula the ability to burrow then it can decrease your chances of seeing it often. These are naturally reclusive creatures that more often like to come out at night if at all. Keep this in mind and be aware. It is also not uncommon for tarantulas to barricade their hide entrances, especially in times of fasting or molting. I personally have had a G. porteri (Commonly referred to as Rose Hair) board itself up for 6 months without coming out for food or water before it finally molted. So do not be to alarmed should your tarantula decide to be antisocial if they are allowed to burrow.
Another important aspect of terrestrial species is they do not climb well like their arboreal counterparts. This means they have a higher risk of falling when climbing smooth surfaces such as glass or plastic. It’s advised to have a maximum of 1.5x the diagonal leg span of the tarantula in terms of space between the substrate and the top of the enclosure to minimize potential damage should they fall. A large fall for a tarantula with a large abdomen can be fatal and terrestrial tarantulas are more prone to falling because they are not built for climbing.
Arboreal species on the other hand are less prone to falling, they have evolved specialized legs to have a better time grasping onto surfaces that they climb. They also prefer to make their homes up in the leaves and crevices of trees rather than burrowing down in the dirt like terrestrials. The need for substrate for Arboreal species is minimal and the important factor with them is having space and items for them to make their webs in, as well as plenty of ventilation within the enclosure.
They tend to need more air flow in order to thrive well, this is due to the fact in their natural habitats are up in the trees where wind passes through more often than on the forest floor. They also always gravitate towards the top of whatever enclosure they are in. Because of this it’s usually better to try and have an enclosure that allows the top undisturbed when doing water changes and other enclosure maintenance if possible.
Also in the case of Arboreal species the rule of keeping the space between the substrate and top at a maximum of 1.5x the diagonal leg span does not apply. Again these species are able to climb smooth surfaces and recover from falls better because they are naturally built to handle being up in the trees. They need more open space available to them for their webbing and to explore and/or hunt.
Then there are what is known as semi-arboreal. A few species are known to go either way in terms of how they prefer to have their hides. C. cyaneopubescens (Commonly known as the Green Bottle Blue) is a species known for it’s extensive tunnel webbing that it can do when given a more arboreal setup, but is also known for burrowing too if given the chance. With semi-arboreal species either set up can be utilized though watching the tarantulas behavior to see which it naturally gravitates to is important. If you have a semi-arboreal that keeps trying to burrow when it has an arboreal set up, you may want to instead give them a more terrestrial set up. I myself tend to try and set up enclosures for semi-arboreals that provide both options so that the tarantula can utilize whatever it feels most comfortable with and avoid needing to rehouse them sooner than desired.
Now the enclosure types mentioned is not going into how to make you’re own enclosure, what to use as the enclosure itself. There are so many options and DIY methods out there for making enclosures that it really is something to go into in another article with more depth and detail. The primary thing to know is whatever you use, you want to make sure you have air flow of some sort and that it is secure. There are plenty of youtube ‘how-to’ videos on how to make various enclosures for various types of tarantulas. It can be as simple as a plastic tub. it does not have to be difficult or costly at all.
Question 2
What is the best way to provide water?
There is a lot of misconceptions in terms of providing water to tarantulas, especially when you go to a pet store and you see that they have a sponge in the dish or they are using gel crystals to provide water for the tarantulas. Interestingly enough neither of these are good methods to use when trying to provide water for your tarantula, even though the assumption we have is these must be the best methods because the pet store is doing it.
Now first let’s understand just how important water is for a tarantula and why it is necessary to have a constant source of water available. Tarantula’s need to be hydrated in order to be able to move and function. Their legs utilize a form of hydraulics, if they are dehydrated they start to lose the functionality of their legs. Needless to say this can lead to not being able to overcome prey when hunting, make them unable to explore to find water, and can/will lead to death.
While it’s true they get a lot of fluids and hydration from their meals, it’s not uncommon for tarantulas to fast and go long periods without eating, this is what makes it essential to always provide a water source. Of course however it’s important to know what they can and cannot hydrate themselves with, which brings us back around to sponges and gel crystals.
First lets address gel crystals. They are commonly used to hydrate insects, it allows them to gain water from the crystals without drowning in water. Because we tend to give our tarantulas live food, and they don’t always care to eat immediately. Our first thought is to utilize gel crystals to avoid dead insects in the water source. There’s only one problem with this, tarantulas do not have the mouth parts capable of hydrating themselves from gel crystals like insects do. Gel crystals provide no benefit to the tarantula itself what so ever.
Sponges are another method people use to help avoid dead insects in the water dish with a hope of providing water to the tarantula. The same issue occurs here, not only that but with sponges and gel crystals for that matter, non beneficial bacteria has an easier time to grow and build up. Leading to mold or fungus in the enclosure. It takes more effort to change out and clean both of these things while providing no benefit to the animal. Just because a pet store is doing it, does not mean it is proper husbandry. Pet stores do not plan to keep animals long term and rarely educate themselves in proper husbandry for their animals. In fact most tarantula care sheets given at pet stores are incorrect and geared more into getting the consumer to buy unnecessary items to better profit themselves.
All you need, is a simple water dish like you would provide any other animal. If you have a worry that insects will drown, add a couple of rocks for them to climb onto and out of the water dish. Tarantulas will not drown in their own water dish. I have provided water dishes for slings as small as ¼” and never had any drown. The likelihood of a tarantula drowning in water would only happen if the tarantula is already damaged or suffering from another affliction.
There are two key things to remember in terms of tarantulas and water. One, they breath through what is known as book lungs, these are four white spots found on the underside of the abdomen. If you see you’re tarantula with it’s head fully submerged in water but it’s abdomen out, it’s not going to drown at all because it breathes through its abdomen not it’s mouth like humans. Two, they actually are water proof with the way their hairs on their bodies are. When submerged in water they end up with a natural pocket of air between their bodies and the water. The species H. gigas has been documented spending long periods of time under water, and even seen hunting small fish. So make you’re life easier, and life healthier for your tarantula and just give them straight up water.
This can be as simple as a bottle cap, if you have a larger tarantula you may try something a little bigger. Be aware whatever you use, be it a monopoly house (I use these for slings as they take less space) or a gatorade cap, or even a clay water dish, depending on the species and your specific tarantula they may….need changing every day. Terrestrial species are known for flipping their water dishes over if they are able, or burying them with substrate, even putting bolas (Left overs from feeding) in them. Some arboreals will leave bolas in them or even poop in them. So it’s very important to check the water each day to make sure it doesn’t need changed or refilled.
Some people utilize misting as a means of hydration. They do this in an attempt to help keep humidity high for species that come from high humid climates, because the enclosure is to small for a water dish (Vials), or misconceptions that slings will drown if there is a water dish. However there is dangers that come from this, most specifically in conditions that lack proper ventilation, especially with arboreal species. This is most commonly used with slings, especially those kept in vials where there is literally no room for a water dish because the tarantula is so small. In these cases the only option there is, is to mist inside the enclosure to provide water droplets to slings. It can be done this way, be aware however in not misting to much or to often. I personally do not use this method and provide my slings enclosures large enough for a water dish, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be done. I would suggest doing research and discussing it with people very well versed in this before going this route if this is the way you want to do it.
Question 3
What substrate should I use?
This is a question debated and gone over by many tarantula keepers. What kind of substrate you use depends on the type of tarantula you have. Which is why knowing what kind you have is very important. For tarantulas that don’t burrow such as Arboreals it’s easy to get away with any sort of substrate really so long as it is not deadly to the tarantula (Such as cedar chips). The most commonly used tends to be eco earth or cocoa fiber which can be found in most pet stores easily enough.
However for terrestrials eco earth and/or cocoa fiber tends to be a very poor choice as it does not hold burrows very well, especially when dry. While people do use these for terrestrial species quite often be aware that it’s not the best choice if you’re looking to allow your tarantula the ability to make a good solid burrow.
Now there are tons of options out there for substrates and what to use, and it all depends on what you want to go for in terms of set up. A lot of variables come into play on this topic. Because this is a summery and for beginners my suggestion here is to start with eco earth or cocoa fiber because it is safe for tarantulas. It isn’t the most ideal choice but it is the best place to start if you already have a tarantula and still need to do research on the subject. Honestly I would suggest Eco earth over cocoa fiber even, however some people in some areas do not have that product available to them. Another option is simple cheap topsoil, however here you need to make sure that it does not have any ceder in it, or any fertilizers or pesticides mixed in.
I will do a more in depth article on substrates and how to choose which is best for what you want to do with your tarantula and enclosures at a later date. Right now this is simple and basic for the beginner hobbyist who is not going for a bio-active set up that involves plants and clean up crews. That is a much more complex matter best left for another time and should only be attempted once you grow familiar with tarantulas and their care requirements.
Question 4
How do I keep them warm?
A lot of people think that a heat pad is required, or even a heat lamp. Both of these items are not good sources for a tarantula. They can in fact lead to a dead tarantula, it’s not uncommon for pet stores to encourage new pet owners to buy these items because they are misinformed and/or they are simply looking for ways to get more money out of the customer. It’s like the sponges and gel crystals, these items hold no benefit.
With a heating pad, it can create a hot spot in the tank, and for a tarantula that burrows, it gets attracted to that hot spot. It will dig down to it and then sit right on top of it and literally cook itself to death without realizing what it’s doing. They are attracted to warmth because they are cold blooded creatures and do not regulate their own temperatures. Tarantulas in lower temps move slower, and are less responsive because of this also. Having a heating pad attached to the enclosure at any spot is going to attract the tarantula to it, not just if it’s at the bottom of the enclosure, just to be clear.
Heating lamps can do the same in providing a hot spot, not to mention the tarantula is generally a nocturnal creature. Terrestrial tarantulas are not going to really benefit from a heat lamp and arboreals could become too hot depending on circumstances. It again is not an ideal method for providing heat for tarantulas.
The best method in providing heat is keeping the room itself at the required temp, a lot of people will utilize a space heater to provide higher temps. Having the room temperature up to what is needed provides the best and safest way of ensuring a healthy tarantula. Different species handle different temperatures better than others, this is again where research is necessary to know what is best for your situation and what you can manage to get away with and still have a healthy animal. Some people are able to dedicate a room specifically for their animals and can keep it at higher temps of 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Other people are not able to do this, knowing what temps your species requires lets you know if you can get away with lower temps like the 70’s Fahrenheit or high 60’s Fahrenheit.
A common rule people go by is if you are comfortable, then your tarantula is fine. I feel there is a level of risk in this assumption because some people are comfortable in the lower 60’s Fahrenheit, and several species will not thrive well in those temps. So I’m stressing once again, do your research and act accordingly.
Question 5
What should I feed them?
What to feed them. A very important question, once you’ve got them housed and comfortable, you need to know what they eat. As you’ve probably guessed they tend to eat insects for the most part, though they can be known to eat small rodents, lizards, snakes and even birds depending on the species and opportunity in the wild. However vertebrate animals provide a higher risk of danger to tarantulas and should be avoided. The tables can very quickly turn to where you’re tarantula becomes a meal for whatever it is you tried to feed to it if you use vertebrate animals. This is why most of us stick to insects as feeders, and no, you do not calcium dust them like you would for reptiles. All you do is gut load them, aka make sure they’ve been fed well before feeding them to your tarantula.
However even insect feeders present dangers to tarantulas. It’s very important to be aware of those dangers and act accordingly when feeding your tarantula. Let’s go over the various types of feeders with a basic summery.
Crickets
Crickets are cheap, easy to get at the pet store. Always provoke a feeding response because they move a lot and don’t try and burrow into the substrate. However crickets can be dangerous, they will eat anything, including a tarantula surprisingly enough. It’s not uncommon for a cricket that went unnoticed to make a meal out of a molting tarantula. So should you use these as feeders you should make sure there are never any crickets in the enclosure when the tarantula is molting. It’s also wise to educate yourself to telling the difference between males and females, if you keep your substrate moist a female could lay eggs that may later hatch. Knowing the difference allows you to cut off the ovipositor of females to prevent this from happening should you have to leave them in the enclosure for shy eaters. Leaving them unsupervised in an enclosure can present dangers though. It’s usually wise if you have to leave them in over night, check the next morning. If they are still there remove them, try again a day or so later.
In terms of breeding, crickets are difficult. They are not hardy as a species and are known to die easily, not to mention they smell really bad and the males chirp constantly in search of females. They require substrate to be able to lay eggs in and the adults are known to eat the eggs, this requires moving them from one container to another and switching out substrates in order to keep this from happening. All in all crickets are more hassle than they are worth in terms of breeding at home. This is a species better bought than bred in my personal opinion.
Mealworms
Mealworms are another common feeder used, especially with smaller tarantulas and slings. These are not to be mistaken for superworms. They are both the larva stage of two different species of darkling beetle. Most people keep these refrigerated to slow down the growth process so they stay in larva form. When feeding tarantulas it’s very common to cut off the heads for a few reasons. One is to keep them from burrowing into the substrate where the tarantula won’t find them. Another is again to keep them from burrowing and later trying to eat a molting tarantula, because these little guys are also willing to eat a wide variety of things and do present a danger if the proper steps are not taken. They are harder to keep track of then crickets because they burrow and so it’s suggested to either have them in a small food dish that they can’t get out of, or cut off the heads so they won’t burrow and can’t hurt the tarantula at a later date if missed.
In terms of breeding, mealworms are easy. A tub full of oats is all you need to get a population going. However be aware that they can take time, especially in cooler climates. Utilizing a warm room or a heating pad on low may help speed up the growth process. There are several guides and how-to’s online and on youtube in keeping mealworms. Just be aware getting a population started can take a long time. There are different methods people use but a simple bucket full of oats has worked for me in the past. Occasionally providing a food source with moisture like a potato is good but keep an eye on this as it may mold or rot quickly and that won’t be good for your mealworms.
Superworms
A lot of people think that superworms are just larger mealworms. This is not true, while it is also a species of darkling beetle it is not the same species as mealworms. They are also not the same as ‘giant mealworms’ which is a species of darkling beetle sprayed with juvenile hormone different from the species of darkling beetle superworms are. Superworms hold the exact same dangers as mealworms do, however they are larger and they hold a higher nutritional value than mealworms do. So it’s common practice to cut off the heads of these when feeding tarantulas. These can be refrigerated to slow the growth process but because they require separation in order to become adults it’s not as necessary as it is with mealworms when trying to prevent them from becoming adults.
In terms of breeding they take a little extra care then mealworms. While they have the same life stages as mealworms, they will not go into the pupae stage until they are separated from one another. This has to do with avoiding over populations in an area, so only when they go so long without finding another of their own kind will they then go into the pupae stage and from there move forward to full adult beetle. A common practice in breeding superworms is to get jewelry divided containers and put a superworm in each compartment with no food or water and wait. This stresses the animal into thinking it needs to become an adult in order to procreate and continue the species. Somewhat cruel when you think about it, but that’s what’s necessary when breeding them.
Once they reach adulthood they can be put into a container with oats and from there you eventually will get superworms. However it does take a long time for a population to rise, just like with mealworms you can go months without seeing any babies because they start out basically microscopic and take a long time to grow. Patience is really needed with mealworms and superworms, again heat can be used to help encourage faster metabolisms and faster growth.
With both mealworms and superworms though, be aware you can actually feed the beetles to tarantulas. I’ve done it personally with both, they don’t seem to prefer them but they can eat them. It’s not going to kill your tarantula if they do, however a stray beetle is still a big danger to a molting tarantula and these beetles can and will burrow as well.
Roaches
Roaches are by far one of the most popular species to use as feeders for tarantula hobbyists. They are my preferred feeder. They are quiet, if kept in clean conditions do not smell bad, they hold more in their gut for longer than any of the other species mentioned so far, making them more nutritious and depending on the species you keep, may be completely harmless to your tarantula if left inside when molting. Of course there are several species people use and it depends on location whether or not this is even an option for you. Some US states it’s illegal to ship or keep roaches because they can easily become invasive for example. Be aware of what your laws are in your area before pursuing this option, and be sure to research the species you decide upon as well.
I personally keep dubia roaches as they are harmless to tarantulas and require higher temps in order to survive and breed so they have less risk in becoming a household pest if they were to escape because of where I live. But they like to play dead and bury themselves making it difficult for tarantulas to recognize them as prey, in these cases I have to cut off the heads so they move and don’t burrow so the tarantula recognizes them.
In terms of breeding, roaches in general are easy and there are tons of ‘how-to’s out there on how to keep and breed them utilizing a plastic tub and some egg crates. Depending on species they may lay ootheca which are basically egg sacs, or they may give live birth. Either way it only takes mating once with a male roach for a female to be able to lay eggs indefinitely until they die. One mating session lasts a lifetime for any roach species, which is what really makes them high risk of becoming a pest depending on where you live. I will be sure to write an article that goes into more depth on roaches, how they breed and the different types that are used as feeders. Again this is a general overview on the subject to give a person a place to start in terms of information about them as a feeder.
What else is there to say?
At this point there isn’t much else to say, we’ve covered some of the bare basics, and even went into some husbandry. While not detailed and in depth it gives a general basic understanding as to why it’s important to do your research. Hopefully what you take from this is the knowledge that there are a wide variety of options and methods in achieving the goal of a happy and healthy tarantula. There is no ‘one way to do it’, there is no end all be all method of keeping, there are a variety of ways and all of them depends on the knowledge you have on the species you are keeping.
Your options in what to do and how to keep tarantulas or any animal for that matter, is only as limited as your knowledge of the animal you want to keep. If you educate yourself as to what type of tarantula you have, what environment it’s from, the various diets they have. Then you can more easily identify what is happening with your tarantulas behavior as well as dangers that may become present to them in the setting you provide.
Always remember also, in an enclosed setting it is vastly different than one in the wild. In the wild they have the ability to move if something presents itself as a danger to them and make their home elsewhere before molting, in an enclosure they don’t have that ability. In the wild prey items can find food sources else where and wouldn’t normally run the risk of going into a tarantula’s burrow seeking food, in an enclosure they have nowhere else to find food. An enclosed space is very limiting and it is very different from in the wild, this is something that we as caregivers have to understand and have to be able to adjust to for the benefit and well being of the animals we keep.
I cannot stress how important it is that you educate yourself to what species you have, and provide it with the best environment for that species. If you don’t, your tarantula will constantly be stressed out, it will be unhappy, it will be more prone to defensive behavior more so than what it would be naturally depending on species. It will make your experience as a caregiver much more stressful than it needs to be, especially if you are new to the hobby. All in all it’s not good for either involved and if you cannot provide proper care for the animal then you have no business trying to keep the animal.
It’s hard to find good solid information out there, especially on the internet with so many conflicting care sheets for each species. Don’t let this discourage you to much, the truth is, there is still so little that we know and understand about these fascinating creatures. The best way to learn is to pay attention, read everything you can, ask questions with hobbyists who have experience. If you find out you’re doing something wrong, change what you’re doing and learn from it. We have all done things wrong at one point or another, even those most experience because it is an ever evolving learning process for everyone. As long as you strive to provide the best care you know how, you work hard to do your research, and you learn from your mistakes then that’s all that matters in the end.
